Public transport in Norway is safe, clean and reliable, and the scenery is absolutely stunning! As part of our family holiday, we took the train from Oslo to Myrdal and then did a DIY version of the classic Norway in a Nutshell tour. From the world-renowned Flamsbana railway to a stunning fjord cruise, lunch at the top of a mountain in Voss and some city-life in Bergen, there was no time – or need – for teen eye rolling! What there will be, however, is lots of insta snaps and selfies…
So what is Norway in a Nutshell anyway?
Norway in a Nutshell® is the name for a popular tour created by travel company, Fjord Tours. It’s not a guided tour but Fjord Tours will give you an itinerary and book all your tickets for you. If you are not comfortable booking everything yourself online, give Fjord Tours your dates and starting point, and they will organise everything for you.
The highlights include riding the Flamsbana railway, a scenic fjord cruise though the Aurlandsfjord and the narrow, dramatic Nærøyfjord and exploring the fjord villages of Flam or Gudvangen.
So why should my family do a DIY version?
Because everyone travels in a different way and at a different pace. A DIY version lets you choose your travel times, pop in overnight stays, and take time out for activities your teens will love.
Oh, and its really easy to put your itinerary and tickets together yourself. Everything can be pre-booked online and its really easy to navigate when you are there.
If you need a third reason, you will save money if you book yourself – and do it early. Travelling with teens is not cheap, and trains in Norway are considerably more expensive than in continental Europe. I was patting myself on the back for securing some really cheap flights to Norway from the UK, only to weep at the cost of train tickets when they became available to book a few months later. The trip is absolutely worth the cost but don’t spend more than you need to…
FAQs
Because everyone likes a FAQs section, and they can be quite useful…. I could have done with one of these when I was planning our trip.
1. How long do we need for the tour?
If you are really gunning it, the tour can be done in a day. I wouldn’t recommend that unless you have no other choice. This is a journey that merits the time spent.
We did the route over 3 days, starting from Oslo, staying for 2 nights in Flam and ending in Bergen. This itinerary gave us one full day and 2 evenings in Flam (although I could have spent many more evenings in Flam’s Viking pub). We spent our day in Flam hiking along the fjord, feeding mini pigs and paddling at the “beach”. Plus, some time just chilling on our balcony and gazing out over the fjord.
Take a look at my Flam Family Travel post for more ideas on what to do in Flam.
2. So what’s the route?
While there are other possibilities, most families will start from Oslo or Bergen.
- Train from Oslo or Bergen to Mrydal. Myrdal is a small mountain station and the starting point for the epic 1 hour journey on the Flamsbana railway. There isn’t really anything to do in Myrdal and you only need 10 minutes to change platforms for the Flamsbana. The guards will guide you in the right direction. They will even suggest where on the platform you should wait to try and stop any carriages getting too crowded).
- Flamsbana railway from Myrdal to Flam. The 1 hour trip is described by Lonely Planet as one of the best train journeys in the world. The train snakes its way down the mountain, round hair pin bends and cascading waterfalls. Forests clear to give first views of the fjord and the cute fjord-side village of Flam. The train even stops at a platform by the Kjosfossen Waterfall. Here, everyone can get off, feel the spray and your teens can get an amazing selfie! The conductor can see everyone on the platform so no risk of getting left behind!
- Fjord cruise from Flam to Guvangen – there are several departures a day from Flam. Gliding on an electric boat through the wide Aurlandsfjord and then into the narrow and more dramatic, Unesco-listed Nærøyfjord, before arriving in Gudvangen around 2 hours later.
- Bus from Flam to Voss. Buses wait in the car park next to the ferry stop to take passengers on to Voss in just under an hour.
- Train back from Voss to Bergen Finally, hop on one of the regular commuter trains to Bergen. From here you can take the train back to Oslo but the smart money would be on flying into Oslo and out of Bergen.
3. Do we need to book travel tickets in advance and how do we do this?
Yes, although a DIY version gives you flexibility as to how you make your plans, and what you do at each stop, tickets can sell out on the Flamsbana railway and the fjord cruise.
Do it like this:
- Train – Starting from Oslo or Bergen, you will need to book train tickets to Flam, changing at Myrdal. You can book these on the Vy website. Tickets can be booked up to 3-4 months in advance (check the website for the exact on-sale date for your travel plans). Set a reminder on your phone for your on-sale date, you’ll thank me for it later.
- Stay – Book accommodation in the fjord villages as soon as you have your travel dates – the villages are small and have a limited supply of hotels / self-catering options.
- Boat – Book your fjord cruise from Flam to Guvangen through the Norway’s Best website.
- Bus – Gudvangen to Voss. 2 bus companies cover this route and tickets can be bough online and timetables checked at Vy Buss or Nor-Way.
- Train – back on the train from Voss to Bergen. You can book this online in advance but this is a regular commuter service so there is no need to do so. We just bought tickets at the station in Voss when we were ready to leave.
4. Where should we stay as a family in Flam?
Hotels in Flam (or Aurland or Gudvangen) are expensive, even by Norway standards. We always prefer to rent a flat so that the boys can have their own space – and we have somewhere to sit and relax once they’ve finally gone to bed.
We rented an apartment at Flam Ferdaminne through booking.com (see the link here). The location was perfect, next to the fjord, 5 minutes from the Flamsbana train station and only a few minutes to my favourite pub…. We had a 2 bed apartment (a double room and a twin room – needed for teens who won’t share a bed!). The highlight was the balconies – the views over the fjord were just stunning and they had enough of an awning to sit under even when it was chucking it down!
It was slightly startling to open the blinds the next day to see the mama of all cruise ships parked next to us – and slightly funny watching hundreds of people being herded off….
There is a decent supermarket a few minutes walk from the apartment to pick up supplies and a bakery pretty much next door for breakfast.
5. What should I wear?
The weather here can change in an instant. Beautiful sunshine can turn to heavy rain. Deep and damp mists over the fjord are not uncommon, and they do give a somewhat unearthly feel.
The best strategy is to dress in layers and ensure you have a wind-and rain proof jacket. Even on a summers day, it can be cold and windy on the fjord cruise and you will want to be outside!
I would also recommend hiking boots or shoes for trekking round the fjord or up into the mountains.
if you, or your teen, is feeling brave, bring swimmies and check out the floating sauna.
6, So what next?
Why not spend a few days in Oslo or Bergen, ideally both, at the start or end of your trip. For some inspiration, check out my guides to Oslo and Bergen:
Or head back to my main Norway page for more ideas and tips.